One Wire 12 Volt, 55 Amp, Super Mini Denso Racing Alternator
Alternator Bracket Kit Option
Get everything you need to mount your new GZ Motorsports Alternator with these time saving Bracket Kits. This Alternator Bracket Kit allows a compact clean installation with the alternator mounted where you want it. Kit includes 5" dia crank pulley, either Brace Bracket Mount or UALTM100A Heavy Duty Bracket, all studs, bolts and spacers needed (wire not included).
Application Notes: Stud bolt head /block mount works with most applications, call to verify. UALTM100A Mount only works with SBC (Drivers Head & Motor Plate), BBC, BBF, SBF and Motor Plate applications.
Make dead batteries a thing of the past!
This 12vdc Lightweight Nippon Denso Alternator alternator is perfect for race cars with 55 amp or less electrical loads. It features a space saving casting size with a 5.5" bolt circle and is 5" deep from belt centerline to rear of alternator lets it fit in the tightest of spaces. The A101 also features an external Load Dump to protect your expensive electronics! Works great on dragsters or door cars with limited electrical accessories. Easy to hook up, one wire is all it takes! Each alternator is designed to work with 12 volt electrical systems and charges to 14+ volts. Also available in a 16 volt version.
What is a Alternator Load Dump?
When an alternator is in operation and generating current, if the load is suddenly disconnected (for example your main kill switch activated disconnecting the battery from the alternator) the alternator voltage can spike to as high as 120 volts DC and last for as long as 400ms. Voltage spikes that high can damage sensitive electronics like MSD Boxes, Data Loggers, Delay Boxes and other racing equipment. Alternators with a load dump feature are designed to shunt that high voltage to ground if the load is suddenly disconnected, protecting your electronics.
- 55 Amp Output
- 2.5" Diameter V-Belt Pulley Included
- For 12 Volt DC Systems
- 14 Volt Regulator Setting
- External Load Dump Option
- 5.5" Bolt Circle
- 5" from Belt CL to Rear Housing
- 7 lbs Shipping Weight
- Requires 2500 RPM at Alternator Pulley to Activate Charging
- 16,000 Alternator Pulley Max RPM
One Wire Racing Alternator Instructions
The beauty of the one wire alternator design is it's very simple to hook up, just run a charge wire from the positive battery terminal (or battery side of shutoff switch) to the stud terminal on the alternator. This design uses a self exciting field which means when it spins at a sufficient RPM, the alternator will start charging. When the engine stops rotating, it turns itself off.
Keep in mind that the engine has to be turning around 1300 RPM in order to spin the alternator at 2600 RPM in order to get it to start charging. Just start the engine and "blip" the throttle in order to get the alternator to turn on. You don't have to keep the RPM up, once the alternator is energized with a quick blip you can let the engine idle back down.
The maximum RPM on this alternator's shaft is 16,000 RPM, which means if you have a 2-1 pulley ratio, the highest RPM you should turn the engine is 8000 RPM. If the max rpm is exceeded it can cause damage to the internal armature and cause a failure. Please keep this in mind when choosing your crank pulley size. Note that most street pulleys are 3-1 ratio, which for a typical racing engine can spin a alternator too fast.
Do not over tighten the belt! Install the belt and adjust so that there is approximately 1" free play in the belt when measured half way between the pulleys. Don't forget to tighten all bolts.
This One Wire Alternator Wiring Diagram [PDF Format] may be helpful if you're wiring a car up from scratch.
Charge Wire Size
This alternator can output a maxiumum of 55 amps at 14 volts, for the best performance and reasonable amount of voltage drop, you should use a 8 AWG cable for a 10 ft or shorter charge wire. For rear mounted batterys with charge wire lengths between 10 to 15 ft use a 6 AWG cable.
If you run the charge wire from the alternator to the starter, or other location instead of running direct to the battery, you must add a continous duty relay in line with the charge wire to prevent the engine from continuing to run when the emergency disconnect is thrown. We recommend using the a Ford Style Continuous Duty Relay for this purpose.